Goldenmate Lithium Backup Battery

Baenwort

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So its on sale again at Amazon for $169 after coupon. There is another revision with no name change. The reviews are saying it has changed the airflow and fan so that it doesn't turn on as often or as loud.

Seems to have a DIN plug added to the back but no mention of ability to connect.

Any users here have any problems to report?
 

Prospero

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Just bought another one to replace a failed lead acid UPS, that was on my networking equipment. Where I can, I'd like to start replacing all my UPS that don't need higher wattage ones with these. They did change it so that the power button will mute the alarm now with a short press. Three second hold turns it on and a five second hold will turn it off. It had a $25 coupon that brought it down to $175 from $200, so not terribly priced for what it is.
 
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Gandhim3

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Thanks to OP initially posting, just ordered one as UPS for my internet devices (modem, router, switch, NVR security cam), and a second one for my home office (I work from home). I have whole house generator installed so this will be only for ~2 minutes of use before the generator kicks in during power outage. Plus it’s 20% off on sale right now
 
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Prospero

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Thanks to OP initially posting, just ordered one as UPS for my internet devices (modem, router, switch, NVR security cam), and a second one for my home office (I work from home). I have whole house generator installed so this will be only for ~2 minutes of use before the generator kicks in during power outage. Plus it’s 20% off on sale right now
Pretty much matches my use of them, although my generator is a manual transfer so it will take longer than two minutes to switch over. I bought a second one recently as I had a Lead UPS die and I wanted to replace it rather than just a battery refresh. I'm going to do that as my UPS batteries age out. I still wish Goldenmate would come out with a bigger UPS though.
 

Prospero

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was thinking 1500VA, which they seem to be coming out with. Big price jump from the 1000VA one though. Edit: I may just bite the bullet and order the 1500/1000 one, although I will probably wait till next payday to do it. The total is only $324 shipped after discounts.
 
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Can someone please measure efficiency? There is no Energy Star entry for this device.
How would you even do that?

Also: since presumably you're only discharging and then charging it once in a great while, does the efficiency matter? Over the service lifetime, even an inefficient unit probably wouldn't cost more than 20 or 25 extra cents to run. A full charge would probably cost like two cents(400W@30 minutes means 0.2KWh battery capacity), so an inefficient full charge might cost three cents.

edit, later: I suppose someone could measure how much load it adds on an ongoing basis. It should be very little, but these are pretty cheap units.
 
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Prospero

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Can someone please measure efficiency? There is no Energy Star entry for this device.
The ad on their website says >89% with a harmonic distortion of <5%. This what your after?

Edit: The new one arrived and is charging up. They come at about 70-80% charge and I always like to have them full before I place them into use.
 
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Drizzt321

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Hm. For that price, with the enormously lower cost 100Ah LFP 12v/50Ah 24v that can easily do 50a sustained and are decent enough quality, and a decent inverter-charger with automatic transfer switch, if it might actually be cheaper/cost about the same to go that route for the bigger size.some of those inverter-chargers actually list the ms transfer time and UPS functionality (although some are starting to get pricy for that).
 
These aren't online double-conversion units, so the efficiency during normal operation should be darn near 100%, right?
It'll have some onboard circuitry to manage the battery and charge it when it gets low, and it needs something monitoring voltage so it can do a cutover, so it'll take at least a tiny bit of current all the time. If it's built well, though, that shouldn't be noticeable.
 

w00key

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The ad on their website says >89% with a harmonic distortion of <5%. This what your after?
Okay so up to 11% of power is turned into heat at unknown load %. I guess to run either double conversion to fix the power quality or standby power for inverter to correct the waveform in line interactive mode.

Either way, it would be great if someone can run it with two power meters / smart plugs and compare them to calculate lose, when the unit is full / not charging. It would be interesting to see overhead at low load like a 5W LED bulb, and a gaming PC pulling 500W+.
 

continuum

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It would be interesting to see overhead at low load like a 5W LED bulb, and a gaming PC pulling 500W+.
Hmm, I have one Kill-A-Watt, I wonder if I can borrow a second.

I've done some testing of USB-PD units with a Kill-A-Watt on the AC end and a USB-PD cable with multimeter built-in, but that obviously wouldn't work in this situation.

I also suspect load testing with a 5W load or something small like that might be rough given accuracy limits of consumer devices like a Kill-A-Watt, and unfortunately I can't just borrow higher precision equipment for a personal test like this.
 

evan_s

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It's not ideal but you could probably do it with a single meter as long as you have a relatively stable load. For something like a 5w light you could probably just run it as is but you probably won't detect any difference. For a PC you could probably run something like furmark and get a relatively stable consistent power draw to get some idea. Assuming it's just a standby unit it really shouldn't make a difference in power draw.
 
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Gandhim3

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Well, one of the two UPS I received is now not working. The LCD lights up and shows the the battery as fully charged but there are no input or output watt readings and no power pass through. No error codes on the LCD either. And neither the green or red LED is lit. This was after ~24 hours of use. I had set it up last night and everything was working. Saw tonight everything (work laptop, Mac mini, monitors) I had connected to it was powered off. So back to Amazon it goes for exchange. Maybe I got a dud.

The second UPS I had ordered was delivered today and I have that hooked up to all my internet and wireless equipment as of this afternoon. Will keep an eye on it while I wait for the replacement to arrive for my home office.
 
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Prospero

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Well, one of the two UPS I received is now not working. The LCD lights up and shows the the battery as fully charged but there are no input or output watt readings and no power pass through. No error codes on the LCD either. And neither the green or red LED is lit. This was after ~24 hours of use. I had set it up last night and everything was working. Saw tonight everything (work laptop, Mac mini, monitors) I had connected to it was powered off. So back to Amazon it goes for exchange. Maybe I got a dud.

The second UPS I had ordered was delivered today and I have that hooked up to all my internet and wireless equipment as of this afternoon. Will keep an eye on it while I wait for the replacement to arrive for my home office.
So far the three I have haven't even hiccupped, so hopefully your replacement does the trick. 🤷‍♂️
 

cogwheel

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I wonder if this one violates the electrical codes.

The NEC (NFPA 70) requires you to de-rate to 80% for continuous draw. Since 80% of 15A (limit of a US standard NEMA 5-15 receptacle) @ 120V is 1440W, the stated capacity of this unit (1600W) would require at least a NEMA 5-20 plug to not violate code. It's more likely the manufacturer just said "fuck it" and used a 5-15 plug, relying on eating into safety margins and the fact that most people won't actually draw that much power (they buy this one for the larger battery only).
 

evan_s

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I wonder if this one violates the electrical codes.

The NEC (NFPA 70) requires you to de-rate to 80% for continuous draw. Since 80% of 15A (limit of a US standard NEMA 5-15 receptacle) @ 120V is 1440W, the stated capacity of this unit (1600W) would require at least a NEMA 5-20 plug to not violate code. It's more likely the manufacturer just said "fuck it" and used a 5-15 plug, relying on eating into safety margins and the fact that most people won't actually draw that much power (they buy this one for the larger battery only).
Offhand I'd say it's likely fine. NEC defines continuous as 3+ hours and there's no way this thing is lasting that long at that power level. So even worst case scenario of a single device maxing out the power it can provide won't violate spec as it won't run for anywhere near long enough.
 

steelghost

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I really thought that this would come to Europe / UK in due course, but still no sign of it (or anything remotely similar). I can either have something like this, or jump up to rackmount units at x3+ the price from Eaton and APC.

Not that there's anything wrong with something like the little Eaton unit for a fibre GPON unit or whatever, but if I want something to keep my little rack going in a power outage, I'm into some serious coin that I don't really need.
 

Drizzt321

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Hm, depending on specifics of what you need/want,

$190 12v LiFePO4 100Ah 1C battery https://www.litime.com/products/12v-100ah-group-24-lithium-battery
$70 10a charger https://www.litime.com/products/litime-12v-10a-lithium-battery-charger
$106 1000W inverter https://www.litime.com/products/litime-1000w-12v-pure-sine-wave-inverter
-or-
$390 12v LiFePO5 200Ah (better single battery than 2 in parallel) https://www.litime.com/products/litime-12v-200ah-lifepo4-lithium-battery
$180 2000W inverter https://www.litime.com/products/litime-2000-watt-12v-pure-sine-wave-inverter

Add ~$60 for an MRBF fuse & holder for the 100Ah, and for around $450 plus tax you can do slightly over 1 hour runtime at 1000W usage. Also need some kind of container to hold the battery & most wiring in. Would run continuously from the charger, so basically it'd be online, although battery wouldn't have to cycle much (and it can handle cycling a LOOOOOOT better than lead-acid).

For 2000W, you might be able to get away with a MRBF fuse, but Class-T is much better, which will be call it ~$100 for fuse & holder. Plus a bit more for some extra wiring, call it $150. So for $150 + $640, plus perhaps $40 in additional short, large size wiring from battery to inverter, you can get slightly over 1 hour of run time at 2000W usage, or a lot longer with less usage, with higher surge capacity. You couldn't sustain 2000W off of the charger, you'd need the $90 20a https://www.litime.com/products/12v-20a-lifepo4-battery-charger to do that. More or less. If you don't want/need that much runtime, you'll need a smaller 12v battery with 2C (2 times Ah capacity discharge capacity rating) for the 2000W. Possibly save a bit of money.

So for a bit more, get a LOT longer runtime with higher capacity. But not in as small or streamlined of a package than the new, larger Goldmate.

Potentially go for various pieces (if you know what you're looking for) off of Amazon or the like for a 24v battery/inverter setup and save slightly on wiring.

Potentially interesting for some who have more physical space and are interested in longer runtime without needing very high output. And want to perhaps save a bit of money, depending on specifics.
 

cogwheel

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Offhand I'd say it's likely fine. NEC defines continuous as 3+ hours and there's no way this thing is lasting that long at that power level. So even worst case scenario of a single device maxing out the power it can provide won't violate spec as it won't run for anywhere near long enough.
Wait, what? Think about this for a second. There are two possibilities, one of which is absurd and one of which violates code:
  1. When you draw more than 1440W from this UPS, it switches to battery so it isn't drawing more than 1440W from the wall. This means you can only run your device on battery power, an absurd case.
  2. When you draw more than 1440W from this UPS, it in turn draws more than 1440W from the wall (it's acting as a power strip), and you've just violated code if you're using a 5-15 receptacle.
In the second case, the battery does not in any way limit the duration of draw.

This is a UPS, and as such there's no way for the manufacturer to know how long you're going to run the devices plugged into it when the power is on. As such, the manufacturer has a responsibility to derate per the NEC to 12A to use a 5-15 plug, select plugs and a receptacle that can handle 13.4A continuous (e.g. a IEC C20 socket on the UPS instead of a C14, and make the included power cable IEC C19 to NEMA 5-20 instead of C13 to 5-15), or put a timer on it and shut off after 3 hours (but no-one is going to want that), since running the loads for more than 3 hours is plausible.

You want to know something fun? These Goldenmate UPSes are not UL listed. Goldenmate is a brand of Shandong Goldencell, who appear in the UL database as both Shandong Goldencell Power Technology Co Ltd and Shandong Goldencell Electronics Technology Co Ltd ("Goldenmate" does not appear in the UL database at all). The only things Shandong Goldencell have in the UL database are bare cells and battery packs (the ones with lugs they market as alternatives to lead acid for RV batteries and the like). The battery packs inside the Goldenmate UPSes are probably among those that are listed, but the UPS itself isn't. At least they aren't doing the typical chinese fly-by-night thing and putting the UL mark on the box and device anyway.

Potentially interesting for some who have more physical space and are interested in longer runtime without needing very high output. And want to perhaps save a bit of money, depending on specifics.
Yeah, but this isn't a UPS, it's a battery, a charger, and an inverter. You only have either the charger or the inverter hooked up to the battery, and you don't have your load plugged into the inverter most of the time, so transfer in a power outage involves
  1. Unplug the battery from the charger if it's plugged in.
  2. Plug the battery into the inverter.
  3. Unplug your devices or power strip from the wall.
  4. Plug your devices or power strip into the inverter.
For the type of use I'd guess you probably have in mind (in your trailer, at Burning Man), that's pretty much what you're going to do anyway, but it isn't what most people would want if they're shopping for a UPS.
 

Drizzt321

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Wait, what? Think about this for a second. There are two possibilities, one of which is absurd and one of which violates code:
  1. When you draw more than 1440W from this UPS, it switches to battery so it isn't drawing more than 1440W from the wall. This means you can only run your device on battery power, an absurd case.
  2. When you draw more than 1440W from this UPS, it in turn draws more than 1440W from the wall (it's acting as a power strip), and you've just violated code if you're using a 5-15 receptacle.
In the second case, the battery does not in any way limit the duration of draw.
Ah, erm. That's a good point. Hrm...wait. I got those numbers wrong. You'd want the higher amp one (or even higher actually) to run 1000W continuous, because that amps is in 12v current. So 20a * 12v (really 14.4v for charging) which is 288W. So you'd need roughly 70a charger to keep it going continuously. My math was bad/wrong, my bad, sorry.

So yeah, can't really be used as "online", unless you get (or have 3 or 4 chargers in parallel) to get enough current for the 1000W. And for 2000W, you're absolutely right, cannot be used online at full capacity without a 20a 120v AC circuit to provide enough power for the chargers. Which is a TON of power.
You want to know something fun? These Goldenmate UPSes are not UL listed. Goldenmate is a brand of Shandong Goldencell, who appear in the UL database as both Shandong Goldencell Power Technology Co Ltd and Shandong Goldencell Electronics Technology Co Ltd ("Goldenmate" does not appear in the UL database at all). The only things Shandong Goldencell have in the UL database are bare cells and battery packs (the ones with lugs they market as alternatives to lead acid for RV batteries and the like). The battery packs inside the Goldenmate UPSes are probably among those that are listed, but the UPS itself isn't. At least they aren't doing the typical chinese fly-by-night thing and putting the UL mark on the box and device anyway.
Heh, that's interesting. In my setup, at least the battery itself is UL listed, which is potentially one of the most hazardous.
Yeah, but this isn't a UPS, it's a battery, a charger, and an inverter. You only have either the charger or the inverter hooked up to the battery, and you don't have your load plugged into the inverter most of the time, so transfer in a power outage involves
  1. Unplug the battery from the charger if it's plugged in.
  2. Plug the battery into the inverter.
  3. Unplug your devices or power strip from the wall.
  4. Plug your devices or power strip into the inverter.
For the type of use I'd guess you probably have in mind (in your trailer, at Burning Man), that's pretty much what you're going to do anyway, but it isn't what most people would want if they're shopping for a UPS.
Well, assuming (as I fixed above in this post) the 1000W output inverter, you can get enough charger(s) power to keep things running without unplugging stuff to this. Yes, it's basically a battery + charger + inverter. Which isn't that just what an online UPS is? Takes wall power, and converts it to DC, and then converts it back to AC so that when AC power cuts off, it's already pulling from DC. It just starts taking from the battery, rather than from the charger. Just, you know, it a much better packaging and more matched to it's own parts and more QA/etc done on it.

But yeah, going to the 2000W (unless you limit yourself to what you can normally draw from 15a outlet), you certainly could end up constructing the online portion. If you wanted a standby UPS, then you'd need to go for a single unit inverter-charger with an automatic transfer switch. Which would charge slower, and then just switchover within hopefully short enough time when AC power disappears.
 

continuum

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You want to know something fun? These Goldenmate UPSes are not UL listed. Goldenmate is a brand of Shandong Goldencell, who appear in the UL database as both Shandong Goldencell Power Technology Co Ltd and Shandong Goldencell Electronics Technology Co Ltd ("Goldenmate" does not appear in the UL database at all). The only things Shandong Goldencell have in the UL database are bare cells and battery packs (the ones with lugs they market as alternatives to lead acid for RV batteries and the like). The battery packs inside the Goldenmate UPSes are probably among those that are listed, but the UPS itself isn't. At least they aren't doing the typical chinese fly-by-night thing and putting the UL mark on the box and device anyway.
Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep saw that. Not using these on anything remotely critical that we don't mind catching fire. D:
 

cogwheel

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Ah, erm. That's a good point. Hrm...wait. I got those numbers wrong. You'd want the higher amp one (or even higher actually) to run 1000W continuous, because that amps is in 12v current. So 20a * 12v (really 14.4v for charging) which is 288W. So you'd need roughly 70a charger to keep it going continuously. My math was bad/wrong, my bad, sorry.

So yeah, can't really be used as "online", unless you get (or have 3 or 4 chargers in parallel) to get enough current for the 1000W. And for 2000W, you're absolutely right, cannot be used online at full capacity without a 20a 120v AC circuit to provide enough power for the chargers. Which is a TON of power.
I was mostly responding to evan_s, who forgot that the UPS is still passing power from the outlet to the load when the house power is on, so battery life has nothing to do with how long a UPS draws power from the wall.

You'll need more power input capacity than power output capacity, because with a UPS you need to deal with the case where the power comes back on and you need to charge the batteries. No-one is going to want a UPS that requires you to turn off your connected load just to charge back up after an outage.

Well, assuming (as I fixed above in this post) the 1000W output inverter, you can get enough charger(s) power to keep things running without unplugging stuff to this. Yes, it's basically a battery + charger + inverter. Which isn't that just what an online UPS is? Takes wall power, and converts it to DC, and then converts it back to AC so that when AC power cuts off, it's already pulling from DC.
A UPS requires the charger, battery, and inverter, but this alone isn't sufficient. Since A UPS needs to not backfeed the grid, and needs to be able to both charge the batteries and pass power around the batteries at the same time (charging up after an outage), it needs more electronics than just a separate inverter and charger. The two functions are usually integrated, like this: https://www.litime.com/products/3000w-pure-sine-wave-inverter-charger
 
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Gandhim3

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Carhole

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Oranging up here. I just recently replaced fourteen SLAs throughout my farm ranch home (mostly on UPS duty) and I have one endrun node on my network where a fire absolutely wouldn't matter, so I'm curious if anyone has made further progress in doing some QA on the various LiFePO4 offerings in the SLA-9A format. Units must contain the BMS circuitry as brought up earlier in the thread for drop-in replacements.

Now, as an added asspain in island living where arguably we are most prone to needing these things, importing anything with Lithium chemistries is a challenging endeavor, but not impossible. Ex: my newest lawn tractor has one, and my handheld jumpstarter contains a small LFP as well, as does a portable tire inflator that I recently acquired, so I'm motivated to try out both longetivity-in-service for small infrastructure loads (switch, LED table lamps, LED security lighting, single WAP, and PoE Cams) how one would fare in a throwaway Cyberpower or APS chassis. I ended up with lots of the aforementioned UPSes from an old job and have a couple of pure-sine models purchased for core infrastructure and my home theater, though looking forward I'm not at the point of building a powerwall yet, and would think that keeping backups modular but on a more modern battery chemistry is the way to go. Any thoughts on the 9A replacements appreicated as I'd jump on a pair of recommended brand packs to try.

For a larger setup as @Drizzt321 likes piecing together I am pondering a segregated circuit for two or three refrigerators and a ground mount small solar array since we have major outages on the island every year, and of course disaster prone grid is disaster prone. This loses 1-2K in food on the long side of interrupted service, so a larger backup would be a fun and sensible project. We get reamed on larger LFP battery costs (these have to come through solar suppliers so, ~150-250% markups apply not to mention incoming tariffs)
 

Drizzt321

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For a larger setup as @Drizzt321 likes piecing together I am pondering a segregated circuit for two or three refrigerators and a ground mount small solar array since we have major outages on the island every year, and of course disaster prone grid is disaster prone. This loses 1-2K in food on the long side of interrupted service, so a larger backup would be a fun and sensible project. We get reamed on larger LFP battery costs (these have to come through solar suppliers so, ~150-250% markups apply not to mention incoming tariffs)
That's even larger than I was suggesting, possibly. But still the same basics apply. https://diysolarforum.com/ is a good forum for all that sort of solar stuff. Bonus, you could potentially have it hooked up with a auto-disconnect switch on a sub-panel so you can backfeed solar to the grid to help offset a bit of cost/power production, and it'll do the correct shutoff from the grid when the grid goes down for safety while keeping your "keep things running" sub-panel going. LOTS more options for that sort of configuration, and a lot cheaper than it has been in the past. Although with the new tariffs, not so cheap anymore I bet.
 
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teubbist

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Any thoughts on the 9A replacements appreicated as I'd jump on a pair of recommended brand packs to try.
Guessing you mean 9Ah? Either way, when you're are battery shopping you'll need to do spec sheet diving, as lots of vendors have a shitty habit of listing peak current draw rather than continuous.

Would recommend the PowerBrick+'s from PowerTech, simply due to having the most accurate spec sheets and having a high C. The UltraMax's are functionally fine but the spec sheets aren't fully aligned, and continuous draw is low enough to only be suitable for low load situations.

The PowerWalkers I converted earlier in the thread have all been fine with no issues to report, including some switchovers. I did add some thermocouple+ESP32's running Tasmota to get temperature monitoring of the batteries, but they haven't reported anything exciting. Charger float is 0.1v higher than the theoretical ideal, but I won't know how much impact that is likely to have until 5+ years as it mostly impacts cell aging.

Will second the diysolar fora recommendation. You're going to get far more sane information there than, say, reddit where talk of lithium battieries and DIY seems to trigger a near instant "you'll burn down the house" response.
 

KD5MDK

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Would recommend the PowerBrick+'s from PowerTech, simply due to having the most accurate spec sheets and having a high C. The UltraMax's are functionally fine but the spec sheets aren't fully aligned, and continuous draw is low enough to only be suitable for low load situations.
List of distributors outside of Europe is 2 locations in UAE and 1 in Japan.
 

Carhole

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That's even larger than I was suggesting,
Possibly, though I’ve got to see what peak draw and running averages look like and then entertain further. I’ve got a single Kill-A-Watt for these purposes. And thanks, I appreciate the forum recommendation.

I’ve been meaning to do this for a long time, and without going too far off the UPS discussion getting the permits for a whole-house solar install is hellish with about a 4Y backlog on installer availability (permitting is about 2Y).

This means no grid tie, and no backfeed possible because of liability issues, just a simple EE project with say maybe stashed panels atop a new chicken coop/shed and reliable cold storage.

Guessing you mean 9Ah?
Yes, of course. Thanks. Appreciate the recommendation on PowerTech for the regular UPS needs. Maybe they’ll actually ship here. I’m seeing freight fees of about $600/100-150Ah capacity on larger LiFePO4s from other distributors (ouch, noooo) though making a little off-grid shed circuit may amortize well with our kWh rates and buying larger cell/pack capacities via a local solar supplier. I’ll take a look. It sure would be nice to try the 9Ah format (no idea the block number on those) solution first.