A Perpetual Picture Of Your Car Thread

Smeghead

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Yeah, here it's not so much rock chips that are a problem, as being continually blasted with a lot of UV. Some areas also see cycles of rain, sun, rain, sun that can't be good for paint.

For the next time I buy a car, I'm wondering if it's better to attempt to head it off ahead of time with getting a film put on it on the day I pick up the car ($$$!), or just put money aside for a respray down the line and accept that this is just a thing here.

On mine, it was the bonnet that started go go first - it started to get cloudy at around the 5-6 year mark across a really large potion all at once, and none of the initial area had any other damage. No amount of detailing helped. The clearcoat initially started detaching from the paint below in a few cases, then those areas opened up, at which point it was done. The horizontal part of the back hatch followed, along with the areas around the belt molding, the little metal area in the roof, etc.

Since it was a cheap car (~$20k after all fees and taxes in 2005) and since it's a really common thing here, I never really felt compelled to do anything about it in terms of a respray. And once it really started to go, I basically stopped caring, washing it a handful of times a year instead of at the weekends. Having a beater is oddly liberating.

Despite all of its other problems, rust hasn't been a thing here. Mine has spent its life parked at home outside just under a mile from the ocean, and it basically has none. It looks every bit its 20 years in terms of paint, but underneath it's clean as hell. I'm used to cars rotting out from the salt in winter, which we obviously don't get here, but I would have assumed that the sea spray would have a bigger effect.

Anecdotally, it appears that Toyotas that are worse than the likes of Honda or Subaru for this. My neighbour has a Corolla that's about 6 years old, and his is already done. He already has major bubbling on the bonnet, roof, boot, fenders and doors at the belt molding. I've also seen a lot of other models of similar ages (judging by the licence plates) with similar problems.

My wife's CR-V was bought a bit before his car, is a similar boring dark grey, and has none of those problems.

And generally, lighter colours appear to do better over time than darker ones. Not a surprise, but it kind of backs up the sun damage theory.
 
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armwt

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So I get to chime back in on this thread after a long time.

Been trying to convince the wife for years that I needed to supplement my Miata with something else, and I finally convinced her. I dislike most new cars, and was looking for budget alternative, so I present my "new" BMW E53 X5:

tempImageyRrj3x.jpg
 

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armwt

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You, sir, have chosen wisely. :D
Other than my wife's current car, I have never purchased an automatic transmission in my life. I don't know how much longer I can get away with that, but... I'm not giving up yet. And I figure that, especially with driving duty split between this and the Miata, this will probably last me another 10 years or so without too much trouble.
 

continuum

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suspension overhaul less than 10K miles ago. And most importantly - it is a 3-pedal x5. Gas milage sucks, but otherwise, I have no complaints!
w00t!

I don't know how much longer I can get away with that, but... I'm not giving up yet.
Yar, same same. Next car will likely be a Civic Type R or Integra Type S or CT5-V Blackwing or something with a 6MT before they all go away. But I am also trying to avoid buying a next car as long as I can, and being fiscally responsible might win out...
 
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Smeghead

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I know how you feel. For me, being responsible was made easier by the fact that the only manual BRZ the local Subie dealer had was a horrid dark grey. They do appear to have snuck in a white Limited right before the tarrifs hit, but I'm still of the opinion that's not a colour, even if white is the sensible choice in terms of interior temperatures in this part of the world.

If they'd managed to get one of the purples in... shutupandtakemymoney.jpg...

Edit: well, crap; I might be in trouble. They're now showing a blue base model at pre-tariff prices. Whyyyyyyyyy!
 

greenskin

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Yes, it's a Renault 5, the 150hp / 52 kwh version. I just saw Hammonds review - he basically says it all.

I am surprised how practical it is in the day to day life as a second family car.

Just today, I had to carry a bike from the bike shop. Removed the bike' s front wheel , folded the back seats and pushed the passenger seat forward and voilà: it got inside.

Oh, and mine comes with an optional removable tow bar, in case I need to mount a bike carrier for several bikes.

Also, it turns on a dime.
 
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ScotchFueled

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So Ford had stated that the PTU,s (Power Transfer Units) are non-serviceable on the Taurus, PIU, PIS, etc.. then they started failing!
There's only 425ml of 75w140 in there! Ford now says change every 25k miles or so..

My PIS (Police Interceptor Sedan) has 90k km on it, and yesterday I changed the fluid.. it requires removing a bleeder valve from the vent line, then extending that line up to engine compartment, you then fill it ever so slowly.. takes like 45 mins.. anyways here's what I pulled out:

View: https://imgur.com/a/rbiuCay
 
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Smeghead

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Yum. Sell it on as treacle?

At the weekend I did my oil change that was postponed while waiting for my shoulder to heal. It was really due at the tail end of last year, but the arm was pretty useless before surgery.

While I was in there I also did my gearbox oil. It's nowhere near the mileage for replacement, but I believe it's supposed to be done every 60 months, and I think I forgot to do it at the last 5-year interval, so it would have been 10 years old. The oil that came out looked in pretty good condition and didn't stink or anything, so no harm, no foul?

Oh, and whoever came up with the idea of selling 75W-90 in plastic squeezable pouches with a pointy nozzle instead of bottles deserves a nobel peace prize or something. Infinitely easier than having to screw around with a pump, etc. to get it in the fill port.

Next up, I have brake hoses for all corners and new radiator hoses. They look ok visually, but they're the originals, and I don't need them splitting through age. I should also replace the serpentine belt, but I'm not yet confident of my arm's ability to reach that much while potentially using the other to support my weight. :\
 

continuum

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Oh, and whoever came up with the idea of selling 75W-90 in plastic squeezable pouches with a pointy nozzle instead of bottles deserves a nobel peace prize or something. Infinitely easier than having to screw around with a pump, etc. to get it in the fill port.
LOL seriously.

Glad the arm is healing up but sounds like still some recovery time til it's back to 100% of original fitness?

Just ran a 2:32 around Buttonwillow configuration 14 CCW... instructor was able to do a 2:17 without even trying hard, so while I know there's another 15 seconds to be gained, I'm also pretty sure it's more like 25 seconds. Did configuration 13 CCW in the morning at a 2:35 but wasn't able to get an instructor to drive it in that config.
 

Smeghead

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Yup. Not only did I have a complete tear in the rotator cuff, I also had a major case of frozen shoulder. To this day, I still have no idea what the hell I did to it. It may never be 100% again, but given my shoulders were hyper-mobile and my most flexible joints, I'll settle for about average instead.

PT has been hell, but the last few weeks have shown big improvements. For example, I can now lie on a flat surface and push the arm back so that it's parallel and touches the surface, and can do so without a huge amount of pain. Before the surgery I could barely get it past the 90-degree mark. It still can't get there under its own power, and the arm and shoulder have no strength left in it, but the main thing is to get the joint working again - I can sort out the rest afterwards.

Buttonwillow looks like an interesting mix of corner types. Do you do an annual pass there. or is it just when the idea strikes you?
 
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continuum

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OUCH. That sounds painful. :(

Tons of groups rent Buttonwillow for track days, I usually go with NASA. Speed Ventures, On the Grid, SDC, Lotus Club, Porsche Club of America, Track Daz, Pacific Track Time...

I think some more private club-owned/operated tracks might have what you're talking about, but I don't hit the track remotely often enough to care, plus the nearest one I can think of like that is The Thermal Club. I tend to go when a group I know has an event that fits my schedule. I am still new enough at track days that I prefer having an instructor with me if I can, which means sticking to the beginning (HDPE1) group so far when there with my own car, or doing one of the half-day/full day events where the track provides the car and instructor (which tends to be about 3x-6x more expensive up front, although out-of-pocket costs at the end of the day probably isn't all that far off...).
 

yd

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Back down in Tasmania....not my car but rented the same again and this time got one in red/burgundy.

SWT11v7.jpg

This time, more prepared and got rid of all the super nanny blings and blongs and 'please obey all traffic regulations' every time you went 2km over the speed limit. As far as a rental goes, its not all that bad. Bit thirsty but that could be putting it in 'sport' (which annoyingly you have to redo every single time you start it).
 
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Arasirsul

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About two and a half years ago I made the mistake of selling my '98 ZJ and buying a more modern version.

I have finally finished correcting that mistake.
1744407384302.png

Yeah, I might be a little nuts, but I really liked that rig. This one's the same year, same color, same drivetrain, but it's the Limited package and has marginally fewer miles on it. (OK, maybe not marginally. This thing's got 29,000 on it. No, that's not missing a zero.)

Paperwork shuffling is in process, I'll probably pick it up next weekend.
 

yd

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About two and a half years ago I made the mistake of selling my '98 ZJ and buying a more modern version.

I have finally finished correcting that mistake.
View attachment 107424

Yeah, I might be a little nuts, but I really liked that rig. This one's the same year, same color, same drivetrain, but it's the Limited package and has marginally fewer miles on it. (OK, maybe not marginally. This thing's got 29,000 on it. No, that's not missing a zero.)

Paperwork shuffling is in process, I'll probably pick it up next weekend.
Thats a thousand and change miles a year, like, 100 miles a month. How the heck did you find something that lucky! Did you bonk some old granny over the head out of her prized possession? You monster! :p

My Avis rental has like, four months of that kinda pace in two weeks and only a couple proper drives!
 
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Carhole

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Got a good look at a Rivian R1S the other day. First impressions are clean, rather well made interior, and the digital cluster and main center stack touchscreen seems simple and intuitive yet feature packed. The truck is far smaller than I was expecting and you cozy up to your passengers without much shoulder or console room similar to a commuter sedan in feel, and the low stance at default ride height made it too tight for me to consider as a buy, but again, overall impressions of quality were my takeaways and it drives with a nice, low-CG planted feeling.

Probably the only negative I experienced was the ride height adjustment losing its sense of level and while elevating the vehicle first went nose up and then nose down until eventually the air suspension valves and accelerometers sorted themselves out.

Hope to see this company become a mainstay in the BEV world. Good stuff.
 

Jables

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Got a good look at a Rivian R1S the other day. First impressions are clean, rather well made interior, and the digital cluster and main center stack touchscreen seems simple and intuitive yet feature packed. The truck is far smaller than I was expecting and you cozy up to your passengers without much shoulder or console room similar to a commuter sedan in feel, and the low stance at default ride height made it too tight for me to consider as a buy, but again, overall impressions of quality were my takeaways and it drives with a nice, low-CG planted feeling.

Probably the only negative I experienced was the ride height adjustment losing its sense of level and while elevating the vehicle first went nose up and then nose down until eventually the air suspension valves and accelerometers sorted themselves out.

Hope to see this company become a mainstay in the BEV world. Good stuff.
Rivian did themselves a huge solid getting featured in Long Way Up and I have been rooting for them ever since. Really need some new blood and competition in that space, and I say that as a die-hard ICE guy.

Speaking of, 928 is officially sold and off my books. That was an eye-opening experience on selling on BaT and I'm glad I did it.

Happy trails, Bruce!

IMG_1980.jpeg
 

Jables

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How so? I am considering BaT for my dad's Ford.
Experience itself was good, what got me is the lack of control. I used a broker to manage and the process took like, two months. Then finally the car goes up the week tariff mania is rocking markets and I get on the low end of what I wanted. Once you commit it’s just out of your control and luck plays a big part on timing and audience.
 
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timezon3

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PPF is best applied when the paint underneath is already pristine-- so you will want full on chips/scratched filled and paint correction done beforehand. I think you can skip chips/scratches being filled but not sure on the result.

Most last a few years-- they have gotten dramatically better since they first came out 20 years ago-- but absolutely pay attention to how long the one you have installed is supposed to last as well as the maintenance requirements. If the PPF requires, say, mandatory detailing once a year, make sure you get that done.

Failure to follow maintenance instructions/keeping a PPF installed past its recommended installation life can have catastrophic consequences; a few friends have basically had to have entire hoods replaced because their very old, past-design-life PPF basically contracted in-place, destroying the paint, and could not be removed without an obscene amount of labor. Others have had severe yellowing and whatnot but that is a more normal failure/wear-out mode.

... that said, if you drive on roads where you know you are going to get rock chips and stuff frequently, and you want your car to look good, it's often worth the expense-- damaging PPF/taking the protection of PPF vs. repainting in many cases is worth the cost of PPF.
I have some 13-year old 3m scotchgard on my Bug and I'm pretty impressed with how it's held up. I installed it myself as soon as I got the car (it's a 2012). It is pretty yellow at this point, and probably I should go ahead and remove it, but it's not cracked / crazed / shrunken. I have definitely seen results like that on random cars in the parking lots, though, with the film obviously cracked into a million pieces that would take forever to remove individually.
 

Backstop

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Once you commit it’s just out of your control and luck plays a big part on timing and audience.
Right, I'm weighing that with the hassle of showing it to local buyers and possibly having to wait out the economic vibes. The people who would be interested in a stock pre-War Ford coupe are probably the same ones nervously watching the line go down on their retirement accounts.
 
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Arasirsul

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Thats a thousand and change miles a year, like, 100 miles a month. How the heck did you find something that lucky! Did you bonk some old granny over the head out of her prized possession? You monster! :p

The story that comes with it claims that it was purchased by folks in Southern California and left at their ski lodge up in the mountains near Aspen. So basically they'd come into town to ski, use the rig to drive around town while they were here, and then go home.

I'm buying it from the guy who's making the real killing on it. :)

Experience itself was good, what got me is the lack of control. I used a broker to manage and the process took like, two months. Then finally the car goes up the week tariff mania is rocking markets and I get on the low end of what I wanted. Once you commit it’s just out of your control and luck plays a big part on timing and audience.

I bought the new ZJ on one of their auctions and I think that's why it went for a price I was willing to pay. I fully expected mine to sell for $5K more than I bought it for.

Now I'm working through Caramel to finish the transaction, which is a waste-- the guy lives less than an hour from here, but I don't have a local bank to conjure up a certified check, so I figured I'd use the service. It's easy enough, but it adds some time to the deal. I probably won't pick the thing up this weekend because he likely won't see the first part of the funds 'til Monday.

It's OK. We're unlikely to get enough snow today and tomorrow to make me wish I could go thrash about in it a bit with the new rig. :)
 
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yd

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Got a good look at a Rivian R1S the other day. First impressions are clean, rather well made interior, and the digital cluster and main center stack touchscreen seems simple and intuitive yet feature packed. The truck is far smaller than I was expecting and you cozy up to your passengers without much shoulder or console room similar to a commuter sedan in feel, and the low stance at default ride height made it too tight for me to consider as a buy, but again, overall impressions of quality were my takeaways and it drives with a nice, low-CG planted feeling.

Probably the only negative I experienced was the ride height adjustment losing its sense of level and while elevating the vehicle first went nose up and then nose down until eventually the air suspension valves and accelerometers sorted themselves out.

Hope to see this company become a mainstay in the BEV world. Good stuff.
Yea, they look nice. Not likely ever going to be in a market I live in but I'd definitely take a look at one if it were (well, not in HK, no need for that here). I know which company isn't even on the list for consideration for an EV.
 

IncrHulk

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Removed my old bumper, which was rusting badly, and replaced with a new one. The cost of a new bumper was slightly less than removing the old one, getting it media blasted, and then rhino-lined and re-installed.

For the record, if you’re installing a Smittybilt Stryker bumper, watch every YouTube video of the install possible. Then queue them up to review while installing the bumper. The included instructions aren’t even a suggestion of what to do. IMG_6505.jpeg
 

yd

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Removed my old bumper, which was rusting badly, and replaced with a new one. The cost of a new bumper was slightly less than removing the old one, getting it media blasted, and then rhino-lined and re-installed.

For the record, if you’re installing a Smittybilt Stryker bumper, watch every YouTube video of the install possible. Then queue them up to review while installing the bumper. The included instructions aren’t even a suggestion of what to do. View attachment 107968
Snorkel, alien green, me likey!
 
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and possibly having to wait out the economic vibes.

General thoughts on the used car market for the peanut gallery: my gut (there's very little data for any of this) says people will race to buy new, prices will spike really hard unless Trump folds, and used car prices are going to look more like Covid times in the future.

But your specific case with a collectable? The overall car market is pretty detached. People are going to be poorer so either get paid immediately or hold for the decade it's going to take to repair all of this? My suspicion is that the car you have will be most of interest to rich, but not wealthy (in the Chris Rock sense) old white guys. Even if it's within means, watching your investments tank has a clenching effect. I don't know man.

I mostly started this post because it was an interesting thought experiment I wanted to ponder, but it's a tough situation if you're trying to maximize return. Good luck.